Wednesday, September 28, 2011

In chess, it's called Zugzwang...when the only viable move, is not to move

So it's been a few days, my apologies.

We just got the ethane and ethene gases in and setup the apparatus I need to do my studies on.  There are many other gases around that I have been playing with as well.  It will soon be my turn on the x-ray diffractometer and I already have 3 samples ready to go.

This week has been a little more grueling.  I'm putting in more hours in the lab and reading more, will have to do some writing soon as well.  Yesterday morning, I went for a run, which I really don't often do.  I think I did a good 2 miles...quite pitiful in many respects, but for a person who doesn't run very much, it was nice to do.  Then I met up with Matteo at the Neelsie to watch the Italy/USA world cup of rugby game.  These games, are EXTREMELY entertaining.  The rules are somewhat lost on me but I'm learning them quite fast.  The USA put up quite a fight actually, got two tries, but lost 25-10.  Purchasing a springbok uniform is in my future.  Many of the american rugby players actually play for other teams in international leagues, one of which is Todd Clever, the USA captain for the Lions in South Africa's elite league.

I have also booked a surfing lesson in Strand (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Strand,_Western_Cape), about 25 km away from Stellenbosch.  Len has let me borrow his bike for the 15 mile trek to and fro.  The lesson includes wetsuit (the water is freezing), surfboard (most likely a longboard since they're easier), and a 75 minute lesson all for the low low price of R200, or $25.  Should I get better, I see myself doing this every single weekend and eventually getting to a shortboard set-up.  That is the goal.

Next weekend, will hopefully be shark diving.  Details TBA.

There is a movie theater here in the Neelsie, which doesn't show up to date movies really, just ones already out on dvd.  I met up with Matteo and his italian friend Federico, and we saw Mr. Nobody.  The movie ticket was R10, or $1.25.  I HIGHLY recommend the movie.  Easily one of my favorites.

The first gift shipment has been sent back home yesterday as well.  There will be many more to come so please don't feel left out if you haven't received anything as of yet.

Afrikaans lesson #3
paaldanskamer - "Pole dancing room"

I'm a bit torn on when I should go on safari, either around here or Kruger Reserve.  The Kruger is the largest reserve in South Africa and they have many packages for safari viewing.  People just basically want to see the Big Five game (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Big_Five_game), which is basically the five most difficult animals to hunt here.  Virtually none of these reserves guarantee seeing all these animals though.  So the larger the reserve, perhaps the less of a chance to see one of these animals, there's the rub.  Prices are high, almost $1,000 for a few days trip, but I can't leave here without doing it.

Miss you all.

CK

Sunday, September 25, 2011

Teach me how to Sokkie

It's sunday afternoon here in sunny Stellenbosch, Western Cape.  The past 48 hours have been extremely entertaining.  I plan on going into the lab a little bit later to get acquainted with the set-up and start some crystal growth experiments.

Friday was a chill day in the department.  It started with a seminar in the morning with Dr. Gareth Lloyd from the UK, followed by tea time with the speaker.  My brief stint in the UK and now here has really illustrated the importance of tea in daily life.  Afterwards, the entire group and company went to the Hillcrest Berry Farm.  The food was quite good and the view was breathtaking.


                                                                           Our view

Since eating out is quite cheap here, I calculate that if I were to eat out for every meal, it would be comparable to buying groceries in the states and making lunch and dinner for two months.  With that knowledge, we went to Gino's (http://www.ginos.co.za/) in the nightcap on friday for dinner and drinks. The rugby match was on, the food was delicious, and the place was packed.  We were there for hours sharing stories and discussing more serious realms of thought.  As the boys went home, I met up with some of the students at Cubana (http://www.cubana.co.za/Home.aspx)...

Two notable differences in bars over here vs. stateside:
-Shots ordered at a bar are typically smaller, but in this case, you were given 6 of them with your order
-A liquid cocaine is MUCH more enjoyable here than in the US

It was getting late, so we headed out.  There is actually a club/bar called 'entourage' here.  It was full of dudes and the same type of atmosphere as a blackfinn/mcfaddens hybrid bar.  These bars bring me back to childhood when the thought of a lasershow was quite exciting...every bar seems to have some sort of laser setup which is blinding at first.  It seems as though we all danced for 2 hours straight, riding the buzz from our cubana drinks and headed home around 2am.

Saturday at 10am or so, we headed out to get groceries and materials for later that night.  Afterwards, we set out to the local market.  After exploring for a little, we all got lunch to compensate for the volume of wine that was to be consumed a few hours later.

There are vineyards everywhere.  There is no need to buy tickets to a tasting or to make any appointment at any vineyard.  The two vineyards we were to had tastings of 8 wines or so at R40 (about $5).  These are also the best views I have ever seen of stellenbosch to date.  The pictures posted on FB will be a testament to that statement.

The first vineyard was Uva Mira (http://www.uvamira.co.za/home.html).  The higher elevation of this estate provides a subtly cooler climate for vine growth.  As a corollary, the grape has less sugar content.  The samples were quite generous with a good mix of white/reds, their best in my opinion (and one of the best I've ever tasted) is their Red blend, 2006.  The whites were mediocre.

Next was Ernie Els vineyard, owned by the South African golfer.  This was more of an open type atmosphere with the same gorgeous views.

Everyone always imagines the type of house and lifestyle they will have when they become older and more established.  The art of winemaking I'm sure can be painstaking and complicated, not to mention competitive.  But despite all of that, upon visiting these elegant establishments, the reward easily compensates for the labor.  You can see Stellenbosch for miles and miles, the air seems crisper, the heat is dry, and guests driving to your manor to taste your wine must be a humbling experience.  I'm not saying I will take my chemistry background to the art of the vine, but the idea is very attractive.

The trek back took us to Helene's to have dinner...she is quite the cook and entertainer along with her roommate hendrik (engineer).  We fought off the resulting food coma and headed out to Opskop.  Just imagine a large, wide-open dance floor, a large seating area, small bar space, a balcony, and a plethora of strobe lights that would drive an epileptic mad.  Jager bombs, springboks, soco and limes, and beer highlighted the evening.  Springboks are not only animals here, but shooters (http://www.in-the-spirit.co.uk/cocktails/view_cocktail.php?id=242).

They would play a few songs for the general public, but then would change up the music to accommodate only those who knew how to dance the Sokkie, a traditional afrikaans dance where the male leads and the female follows.  It starts off similar to a sort of waltz, then quickly erupts into spins, twirls, dips, etc.  Watching them all do it was intimidating and it was sort of suggested by the group that I find some south african girl, tell her I'm american, and ask her to teach me.

Nonetheless, I will hopefully become better at the Sokkie before my return.

Afrikaans lesson #2
'asseblief' - please

This will be one busy week.  Miss you all back home, and I will post pictures here soon (pics).

Totsiens,
CK

Thursday, September 22, 2011

"Men Wanted for hazardous journey, small wages, bitter cold, long months of complete darkness, constant danger, safe return doubtful, honor and recognition in case of success"

Overslept!  But finally took a shower.

Today we got my phone squared away with the help of Helene and Storm.  Should you feel so inclined as to drunk dial me or just chat you can dial this number: 011 27 0796470376.

Today was a relaxed day ending with a trip to the University of Cape Town for Len's talk, his alma mater.  It was a gorgeous campus and an excellent group outing, starting with beers pre-talk at The Laboratory.  Len's talk was not surprisingly, very well done, and it was followed by an excellent hors d'oeuvres type dinner.   I spent most of the evening chatting with Helene and Leigh about life and we ended up going to the Trumpet Tree for drinks post-talk.  Looks like this weekend will be packed with champagne and wine tasting, and more drinking among colleagues.

Short update, it's been a long day.

P.S. since my compounds are finally here, the chemistry will begin

FB album #1 is uploaded
Pics

Wednesday, September 21, 2011

Mystic Bull, Meaty Music, 100% Good Times

Day 2 has been quite good to me.  It's 3 am here and I am wide awake, so it seems as though my internal clock is still used to stateside time.  My bag is coming tomorrow morning, so I'll actually have another set of clothes to wear.

Today was my first full day on campus and was aided mostly by Len's assistant Marlene.  Imagine a woman who looks similar to Aldous Snow's mom in 'Get Him to the Greek' without the foul mouth but similar accent.  She took very good care of me, getting me access to the 1 of 5 chemistry buildings on campus and sharing some details on campus life while teaching me some afrikaans along the way.

Afrikaans lesson #1
Thank you - 'dankie' (sounds like 'donkey')
Thank you very much - 'beia dankie' ('buy a donkey')

She also told me about the 'Green route', meant for safe and patrolled passage throughout the campus community during late hours (http://www0.sun.ac.za/studentesake/greenroute.php?lang=eng).

The main student center here is called Neelsie (http://www.neelsie.co.za/home).  It's a gorgeous building with all the services one would need (multiple food vendors, post office, school memorabilia, bank, pharmacy, etc.) with plenty of flat screen tvs airing the World Cup of Rugby matches.   Perhaps the most fascinating part of the building is the name itself.  It was named after the dog of prominent south african author C.J. Langenhoven, who wrote the original south african national anthem.

I had the pleasure of meeting many people in Len's group and am figuring out names quickly:
Storm: Blonde hair, blue eyes, very professional and easy going
Leigh: Strawberry hair
AnnaLeigh (sp?): Sits next to Leigh, sans strawberry hair
Dewalt: White male, reminds me of Akil
Vincent: Awesome post-doc
Matteo: Italian post-doc, hilarious demeanor, tall, bearded, loves espresso
Ilne: blonde hair, maybe blue eyes, stores her bike in post-doc room which causes Matteo to ask for a rental fee

I was thrown into the mix at around noon and presented my research today to many of the graduate students in the building.  The nervousness only really lingers for the first few slides, then the words come naturally.  This may have also been the first time I've given a presentation and have had a cited author in the actual audience, quite a strange feeling.  The students were quite receptive, I don't think anyone fell asleep, they asked numerous questions,  and provided me with excellent suggestions and insight.  Much thanks for Vincent for providing me with lunch today as well at the Neelsie.

I headed down the green route a few hours ago and grabbed a beer at Mystic Bull.  Telling the bartender to 'surprise me', I was awarded with a Carling Black Lager, the only beer they have on tap, worth about 14 rand (R14), around $2 american.  After two beers and a plate of food, my total bill was $8, awesome. I had the fortune of meeting two native south africans from the area, who picked up on my american roots quite quickly.

I should hopefully have a phone tomorrow and will post the number as soon as I know.  Tomorrow evening is Cape Town for Len's talk.  Once I accumulate enough pictures from the past few days, I will post via FB.

Stay classy America.

CK

Tuesday, September 20, 2011

DC to Atlanta to Jozi to Cape Town to Stellenbosch

Hey all, I hope things up in the other hemisphere are going well.  I decided to start this blog at the suggestion of one of my good friends and found it to be an excellent idea.

I am here in Stellenbosch (Western Cape, South Africa) at the university (http://www.sun.ac.za/) to do research with Dr. Len Barbour (http://academic.sun.ac.za/chemistry/academic_lbarbour.asp), funded by a collaborative research grant from the International Center for Materials Research based out of UC Santa Barbara.  He is good friends with my current research advisor and has instrumentation that we don't have stateside.

Len has kindly set me up in a nice apartment (kitchen, bathroom, living room, beds, etc.) within a block from campus.  We grabbed a beer after a brief tour of the chemistry facilities and we discussed the roots of the university.  It was originally established by the dutch, but has seen an influx of english influence over the years.  There was a large push to maintain the dutch afrikaans language for the university's identity, however that has been largely ineffective due to the university's desire to establish its ethos in education by employing more prestigious faculty from around the world.

As for the flights, my bag isn't here yet.  I had to rebook my Atlanta flight to leave earlier so as not to miss my connection to Jozi (Johannesburg), though my bag stayed on the original flight.  I smell horrible.  The flight to Jozi was 15 hours and change and featured complimentary movies, games, etc.  I watched Limitless (meh) and Hanna (which was badass).  On a 'minor' note, I also fainted.  Here's the play-by-play:

1.  Eat dinner on the plane (some sort of beef with vegetables, etc.)
2.  Drink a glass of red wine with dinner
3.  An hour passes
4.  I start feeling nauseous
5.  I search for an 'air-sick' bag
6.  I start to make my way towards the lavatory in a sort of vertigo-stricken stupor.
7.  I tell the guy "I really need to use the restroo.....", that was when I fell down.
8.  I awoke probably a few seconds later to a bright light with kind south africans and stewardesses staring back down at me, along with a nurse and doctor.
9.  They lay me down and give me oxygen with those masks that typically fall from above in the even of loss of cabin pressure, they are not comfortable.
10.  My blood pressure is fine, as conjectured by the doctor and he determines that I probably ate something bad while in DC, not so much the wine.
11.  I head back to my seat, not really embarrassed, more just worried.
12.  Said doctor checks back up on me later, I am ok.
13.  Steward hooks me up with more fluids throughout the flight.
14.  I exit the plane, thank nurse and doctor, and head to baggage information to find out where my bag is.

On a good note, South African air was quite enjoyable to fly.

Tomorrow is a big day and it's almost 1 am here.  I miss everyone dearly and you all are on my mind.

CK